Hot tub electrical parts

This is where you find the small parts behind most error codes: temperature and hi-limit sensors, pressure and flow switches, fuses, contactors, and GFCI disconnects. Match sensors and switches to your control system brand and model, and match fuses by exact amp rating and type. Work inside the control box or the spa panel should be done by a qualified technician or licensed electrician.

We're still adding these to the store. Ask AskTub which part you need and we'll point you to it.

Before you buy

Hot tub disconnect: requirements, distance, and typesA hot tub disconnect must be within sight of the tub, readily accessible, and at least 5 ft from the water. Types, sizing, and placement.Hot tub GFCI breaker: what it is, what size, and how to test itA hot tub must be GFCI protected, usually by a 2-pole 50A GFCI breaker in a spa panel. Learn sizing, monthly testing, and why it trips.Hot tub not heating: causes and what to checkA hot tub that will not heat usually has a dirty filter, low flow, or a wrong mode setting. Check these 8 things before replacing the heater.Hot tub tripping the breaker: why the GFCI keeps trippingA hot tub GFCI that keeps tripping usually means a failed heater element, moisture, a bad ozonator or pump, or a worn GFCI. How to narrow it down.

Questions

Which part fixes a FLO or flow error?

Start with the filter, since that is the usual cause. If flow is strong and the code stays, the pressure switch or flow switch is the next most likely part.

Are hot tub temperature sensors universal?

No. Sensors differ in resistance curve, plug type, and cable length by control system. Match the sensor to your pack's brand and model.

Can I replace a blown fuse with a higher amp fuse?

No. Use the exact amp rating and type printed on the board or the old fuse. A fuse that blows again means a component it protects has failed.